Sole Construction

The sole is the foundation of a cowboy boot. Its construction affects durability, comfort, grip and whether the boot can be repaired. Understanding soles helps when buying, when estimating how much life a used pair has left, and when deciding whether a resole is worth it.

Leather soles

Leather is the traditional sole for cowboy boots and is still standard on premium pairs. A good leather sole is cut from oak-bark or vegetable-tanned bend leather, the thickest and densest part of the hide, from the animal's back. It should feel firm and smooth, not spongy or rough.

Good leather soles are built in layers. The outsole touches the ground. Some boots add a midsole for structure. The insole sits inside the boot under the foot, and in a welted boot it is a separate piece from the outsole. Between them, a steel or hardwood shank runs from the heel to the ball of the foot. It supports the arch and keeps the sole from collapsing. Lucchese, Rios of Mercedes and Black Jack use full leather sole stacks on their top models.

Did you know? Leather soles are slick when new, on purpose: a smooth sole slides out of a stirrup easily in an emergency. If you will wear leather soles on slick floors, scuff them lightly with sandpaper or have a cobbler add a thin rubber half-sole.

Rubber soles

Rubber soles grip better and stand up to weather better than leather. They are standard on work boots and ropers, where traction on wet or uneven ground matters. Common types include lug soles with deep tread, softer crepe soles, and molded rubber soles with moderate tread.

Justin and Dan Post often use rubber soles on work and roper lines. Rubber gives up the traditional look and feel of leather, but it lasts longer in wet conditions and needs less care. On a higher-end boot, a rubber sole usually means the boot was built for work rather than dress.

Combination soles

Combination soles use leather under the forefoot and rubber at the heel or toward the back of the boot. That keeps the smooth feel and stirrup release of leather under the ball of the foot, with the wear and grip of rubber where most ground contact happens. Some combination soles are a full leather outsole with a rubber heel cap, or with a rubber half-sole bonded from the waist back.

When you examine a sole, check the forefoot, waist and heel separately. Each may use a different material, and the transitions show how the maker balanced tradition and practicality.

What to look for

Check the thickness of the outsole: a premium leather outsole is substantial, and a thin, worn outsole is due for a resole. Look at the edge finish. The sole edge should be smooth, evenly trimmed, and burnished or waxed. On used boots, look for even wear; uneven wear can point to a structural problem or to the previous owner's gait. Press the arch with your thumb. It should feel rigid. A weak or missing shank means the boot will break down quickly.